Induction cooktops and ranges are showing up in more kitchens. They heat the pan directly with a magnetic field, which makes them fast and easy to clean — and means they fail differently from gas or radiant electric.
Check this first
- The pan: if a magnet doesn't stick firmly to the bottom, the zone won't heat, and the cooktop may show a no-pan symbol.
- The control lock: a key or padlock symbol means the controls are locked.
- The breaker: induction draws a lot of current, and a tripped breaker or a loose connection can take out one side or the whole unit.
- The error code: write it down — it usually points straight to the fault.
Common failures
- Power board (inverter) — a zone or a whole side stops heating, sometimes after a pop or a burning smell. Usually repaired by replacing the board.
- Cooling fan — the electronics need air; a failing fan causes overheating errors and shutdowns mid-cooking.
- Touch controls — keys that don't respond or switch on by themselves: moisture, a failing control board or a ribbon cable.
- Cracked or chipped glass — stop using it, since the electronics sit right under the glass. The glass can be replaced on many models.
- Pan detection — the zone doesn't recognize a compatible pan: a sensor or a board.
Repair or replace?
Most induction failures come down to one board, fan or control, which is worth repairing — especially on a premium or built-in unit. Replacement makes more sense when both the glass and the electronics are damaged, or when the board you need has been discontinued. The technician tells you which case yours is before any work.
Price and warranty
The $69 service call covers the diagnosis and is applied to the repair. Repairs carry a 90-day warranty on parts and labor.